Before leaving for Staging, I remember reading in one
of my many Peace Corps highly informative manuals that there are stages of
assimilation. The first being the “honeymoon” phase, wherein the individual (in
this case, the American) is thriving on the excitement of a new place, new
scenery, ideas, culture, language, what have you. The following stages are less
pleasant—akin to a grieving process, but in this case involving criticism
towards the culture, the people, the language, and removing oneself from these
uncomfortable spaces. Eventually, so I hear, one gets to an emotional space in
which she can accept and comfortably participate in the culture, but naturally,
this takes time. It’s interesting to watch this play out with other volunteers,
myself included. An experience when you realize “oh, so they WEREN’T lying to
me when warning me about this.”
In Ukraine, however, it seems that the length and
weight of this commitment is beginning to dawn on some of my peers, and I see
it in some of their faces. Peace Corps Training is, I think more than anything
else, an effort to illuminate for us the reality of our situation, or as my
Ukrainian teacher told me, “Yoo har nat een Kanzas an-e-moar.”
Today I heard it about the public restrooms. One trainee emphatically told me that she couldn't understand their "unpleasant condition," so to speak. To which I responded (and perhaps too
sharply), “Well, we don’t have to understand it,” followed by my best Popeye
impression “Eye yam what eye yam.” This, of course, had me thinking. And it’s
something so simple, but this realization can only come with a particular kind
of experience: The notion of “civilized society” is so troubled. It’s troubled
because we’ve constructed it from familiar notions of “correctness” and
“superiority,” which naturally implies inferiority. It’s something we talk
about academically from our cushy cultural discussions, but its performance is
very real. It’s real when you find yourself whining over a squat toilet. It’s
real when you become flustered at the grocery store because they only have overpriced instant coffee. And it’s troubled because we assume that because it
doesn’t make sense, then it must be bad. I’ve dealt with this when teaching writing courses, and I see students operate under the logic of, “My experience does not allow me to understand or relate to this
text, therefore the author must be a terrible writer.” It’s the same thing.
It’s the same thing because the onlooker (i.e. the American) does not have the
frame of reference, the socio-historical, the cultural, the psychological, the
ideological contexts to even have a
discussion about toilets and lavatory behaviors. The cultural iceberg metaphor
rings true. Under that toilet, the marshrutka that looks like it rolled out of
a Cold War time machine, that cashier who snaps at you because you don’t have the right change, there is a foundation that
extends far beyond our field of vision, and contributing to this is a Curtain
(if you will) of thought that is far longer than we wish to acknowledge. And
its opening does and should take time.
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